Unit two    Principles of Fashion

一、The Language of Fashion(terminology)  时装的语言（术语）

1、Style 款式/式样

   定义：是指一件衣服（或产品）特有的，区别于其他衣服（或产品）的外观的组合。

2、Fashion 时装/流行时尚

   ①定义：被特定人群接受而流行的款式和式样。

   ②Style 和 Fashion 的区别：

    A style is usually a creation from an artist or a designer.

    款式或式样通常是由设计师或艺术家创造出来的一个产品。

    A fashion is a result of social emulation and acceptance。

    流行通常是由社会逐渐接受而形成的一个结果。

    A fashion is always based on some particular style.

    流行常常是基于某一种特定的款式

    But not every style is a fashion.

    但并不是每一个款式都会成为流行。

   ③ High fashion/ mass fashion 高级时装和大众时装

    High fashion styles are generally introduced and sold in small qualities and     relatively high prices.

    高级时装的款式往往是领先于其他的，总是价高而量少。

    These styles may be limited because they are too sophisticated or extreme to appeal to the needs of the general public, or they are priced well beyond the reach of most people.

    同时，这些款式由于太过世故或太极端而不能被大众所接受，或者标价高于大众所能接受的范围。

    Mass fashion or volume fashion, consists of styles that are widely accepted.

大众时装或量贩时装是由众多广被大众接受的款式组成。

    These fashions are usually produced and sold in large quantities at moderate to low prices, and appeal to the greatest majority of fashion-conscious consumers.

    其特点是量大而价平，针对的是大批的时尚敏感的消费者。

3、Design  设计

   A design is a particular or individual interpretation,version, or treatment of a style.

   设计是对款式的一种处理，或是一种特定的独到的解释。

   A style may be expressed in a great many designs, all different, yet all related because they are in the same style.

   一种款式或式样会有很多种设计元素，各不相同但又相互关联因为它们都是来自于同一个款式。

4、Taste  品味

    In fashion, taste refers to prevailing opinion of what is and what is not attractive and appropriate for a given occasion.

在时装中，品味一种辨别是否吸引人以及是否适合某种场合的能力。

5、A Classic 经典

   A classic is a style or design that satisfies a basic need and remains in general fashion acceptance for an extended period of time.

经典指的是满足基本需求，在一较长时间段内持续被接受的款式或设计。

   eg, The simple lines of the Chanel suit, blue denim jeans,

   Balzer jackets, cardigan or button-down oxford shirts.

6、A Fad  时尚,一时流行的狂热

   A fashion that suddenly sweeps into popularity, affecting a limited part of the total population, and then quickly disappears is called a fad.

7、A Trend 流行趋势

   A trend is a general direction or movement.

   流行趋势是一种时尚流行的整体方向

二、Components of Fashion  时装的四个组成部分

1、Silhouette  廓形/轮廓

   The silhouette of a costume is its overall outline or contour.

   廓形是一件衣服的外轮廓线或者剪影。

常见的廓形有：

    a) bell-shaped or bouffant, 梯形

    b) bustle or back fullness, X形

    c) straight or tubular,长方形

    d) slim,瘦形

    e) rectangular,矩形

    f)  wedge,楔形

    g) A-line A字形

2、Details(细节)

   The individual elements that give a silhouette its form or shape are called details.

   款式式样中的局部/具体部位的设计。

3、Texture  面料

   One of the most significant components of fashion is texture.

   面料是时装个组成部分中最主要之一。

   Texture is the look and feel of material, woven and non-woven.

   Texture can affect the appearance of a silhouette, giving it a bulky or slender look, depending on the roughness or smoothness of the materials.

   面料同过外观、手感和组织机理会影响廓形的效果。它可以蓬松也可以柔垂，这都取决于面料的不同质感。

   Texture influences the drape of a garment. eg,chiffon/corduroy.

   面料对服装的垂感影响很大，比如雪纺和灯芯绒。

   Texture affects the color of a fabric by causing the surface to either reflect or absorb light.

   面料还通过对光的反射和吸收等不同作用产生对服装颜色的影响。

4、Color（色彩）

   Color has always been a major consideration in women’s clothing.

   色彩无疑是影响女装的最主要因素。

   Today, color is a key factor in apparel selection for both sexes.

   在现代服装产业中，色彩越来越成为影响男装、女装的关键因素。

    Historically, colors have been used to denote rank and profession. Purple, for instance, was associated with royalty, and in some periods, could be worn only by those of noble birth. Black became customary for the apparel of the clergy and for members of the judiciary.

   色彩的使用会和社会分层、文化习惯和人的心理有关。

   Color symbolism often varies with geographical location. While white is the western worlds symbol of purity, worn by brides and used in communion dresses, it is color of mourning in India.

   色彩的使用习惯也常常根据地域不同而变化。

三、The Fashion Cycle  流行周期

    流行是有始有终、有轮回的。每个流行的周期要经过下面几个阶段。

    1、introduction    “indecent/shameless”  导入阶段

    2、rise            “outré”  上升阶段

    3、culmination     “smart”  鼎峰阶段

    4、decline         “dowdy/hideous”下降阶段

    5、obsolescene     “ridiculous”   淘汰阶段

    从而在流行周期的抛物线上分成以下五个区间

    introduction stage (导入期)

    rise stage (成长期)

    culmination stage (鼎盛期)

    decline stage (衰退期)

    obsolescene stage (消亡期)

四、时尚影响的三个理论

1、Group Acceptance

时装必须要经过人群的接受。

2、Change

时尚是无时无刻不再变化的。变化是潮流的主旋律。

The Futility of Forcing Change

Meeting the Demand for Change

3、A Mirror of The Times

   时装是一个时代的政治经济文化的镜子。

   时装主要反映了时代的

   Social Class社会分层

   Lifestyle  生活方式

五、时尚的五个原则

1、Consumers establish fashions by accepting or rejecting  the styles offered.  designers---manufacturers---retailers---customers

   流行来源于街头，不是设计师创造的

2、Fashion is not based on price.

   时尚与价格无关。

3、Fashions are evolutionary in nature; they are rarely revolutionary.

   时尚具有延续性和渐进性，不会干嘎然而止或无端而生。

4  No amount of sales promotion can change the direction in which fashions are moving.

   时尚流行有其自身规律，靠促销无法改变其方向

5  All fashions end in excess.

   流行终结于泛滥。如流行周期的图表所示。